A family trip to the Nabesna Area

August 30th, 2026

As written by Lizzy. Possibly less truthful but more grammatically correct than normal.

Start of the trip 

On the drive out we broke up the day with a short hike, only three miles or so. This brought up one recurring theme of the trip: Pearl is a little bit of a princess. She wanted to be carried up the steps. Very scary stairs made of metal. We understand, Pearl. 

Day 1 

The following day, the first day of hiking, we followed Lost Creek until the intersection with an ATV trail leading to Platinum Creek. The creekbed was very good walking, gravely but flat with some creek crossings but mostly just walking the gravel. After a few miles on the creek we reached the ATV trail. We saw two bears down on the creek when we started walking up the ATV trail, though we didn’t manage to get any photos. Other than those two at a distance, we didn’t see any other bears. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

You’ll notice that in this photo Pearl is not wearing booties. Later on she had to wear them, and booties ended up being in short supply on this trip. Pearl isn’t very good about understanding that she will never catch marmots, so she has to be on a leash to prevent marmot chasing. We continued along the ATV trail until we reached Platinum Creek. We continued walking along it until the creek started drying up, and we eventually camped beside the creek. 

Molly had dehydrated food in preparation for the trip. Dinner was rice with beans, corn, and tomatoes, with chocolate for dessert. Afterwards we settled down in the tent, a five-person pyramid tent with the four of us and both the dogs. It was a little tight, but the dogs seemed to like it. Eddy usually takes some convincing to get into the tent, but he seemed eager. 

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family trip in the wrangles, 2026

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

I’m not sure what Molly’s side eye is for. Probably to tell Dad to stop taking photos and go to bed. 

Day 2 

At the start of day 2 we crossed over a pass, then traveled down into the valley and followed a creek that doesn’t seem to have a name. Maybe it can be called Lizzy’s Creek. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

Top of the pass, and then the creek we started walking along. 

There were many bones and antlers. Some of them we permitted Eddy to taste, while others we decided were too photogenic for him to sample. Eddy also believes he should be allowed to carry antlers with him while hiking, which slows progress.

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

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Pearl had to wear booties at this point, after getting sores on her feet after the first day of hiking. My pants were also suffering with an expanding knee hole.  

Eventually we reached the creek leading into Soda Lake, and then reached the lake itself. We camped just next to the lake, after extensive discussion over the best spot to put the tent. At my urging we put the tent in a slightly flatter, but windier section. The tent didn’t end up blowing over, so I’m giving myself credit. Pearl didn’t think she got enough dinner. We ate seaweed, rice and edamame for dinner, followed by chocolate, of course. The games we had packed were starting to become boring, and the only things I had downloaded on my phone were random PDFs, which included some fanfiction. As a result the whole family got to listen to Star Trek fanfiction. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

Day 3 

This was our shortest day. We followed a different creek leading into Soda Lake, sidehilling around brush in the creek. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

 Eventually we cut through the valley and met up with a new creek, Totschunda Creek. Crossing through the valley proved to have more excitement than expected, at least for me. I ended up stepping into a wasp nest. I only got a couple of stings on my ankle, and pushed on. I told my mom I wouldn’t take antihistamines, but wanted to test to see if it would swell up at all. 


We continued up the creek, passing by a waterfall and continuing to walk through the valley. We turned back when we saw sheep on the hills and camped earlier in the valley, not wanting to disturb their access to water. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

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Waterfall and distant sheep. That’s my dad’s photo, I know it’s blurry. Blame him. 

We ate dinner, which was labeled Curry?. Molly had us guess the ingredients, and the first three things I guessed were all incorrect. It was delicious, though Molly complained that it was too spicy and that it caused exciting poops the following morning. Well, who created the dinners? I didn’t have problems with the Curry? but I did have problems with my pants.

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They got sewed back together with dental floss. We were also running through dog booties very quickly at this point, and had to do some repairs with tape. Eddy and Pearl entered energy saver mode quickly at camp. I continued reading the fanfiction aloud. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

Day 4 

Not taking antihistamines first thing after getting stung was a mistake. My ankle swelled up, reddened and became very itchy. It also throbbed when I walked. Even now it’s scabbed and a little swollen. Apparently, like my mom, I have a slight allergy. 

We started day 4 by retracing our steps back down to the creek. However, when we reached the valley instead of going straight up to Soda Lake, we went over a ridge, walked along it, and then cut down to Platinum Creek. We followed the creek back to the trail to Soda Lake, and then camped there. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

This was by far the brushiest day. The descent down to Platinum creek was very brushy, but at least it was downhill. Pearl wasn’t a major brush fan. Suitcase mode had to be activated when she refused to go down into an especially thick section of alder. I picked her up by her backpack handle, carried her for a few steps like a briefcase, and threw her down into the brush. She wasn’t a fan of suitcase mode. 

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Walking along the creek.

Pearl had to be on a leash most of day 4 because of cliffs. She has a tendency to leap before she looks, meaning that she has been known to hurl herself off cliffs without seeing how tall they are. Eddy always has to be on a leash, because he believes recall is a choice. 

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family trip in the wrangles, 2026

Red rocks approaching Soda Lake, followed by rock piles near Soda Lake. We refer to them as the egg cartons. 

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family trip in the wrangles, 2026

Second night of camping on Soda Lake, camping right on the shore. 


Dinner was a bag labeled the OG. Dad thought OG stood for Original Jesus, because he can’t spell. It turned out to be lentils, rice, curry powder, tomato and other spices. We discovered that Eddy now has sores on his feet, and so he needs booties for the remaining days. All the rocks apparently are hard on dogs’ feet. I read aloud more fanfiction. At this point we were well over page one hundred. 

Day 5 

In the morning there was an argument about whether Molly had grabbed Dad’s nose in the middle of the night and wiggled it back and forth. Dad swore she did, and she swore that she hadn’t and that he had dreamed it because she had been wiggling Eddy’s nose the night before. The nose twiddling mystery is still unsolved, if Dad dreamed it, if he made it up, if Molly did twiddle his nose, or if she did it in her sleep. Or if somehow the dogs managed to wiggle his nose. He eventually accused me, but as I was on the opposite side of the tent, it would have taken skills to be able to touch his nose without waking everyone else up. 

This day was the longest day, about 18 miles of walking on creeks, ATV trails and ridges. We started out by leaving Soda Lake the same way we arrived the previous day and following the ATV trail out. However, when we reached Lost Creek we turned up it instead of down. At this point I had run out of breakfast, due to miscalculating my food needs, so I ate granola bars for breakfast. The audiobook I was listening to was coming to a very slow end, one that was thoroughly unexciting and predictable, so I was annoyed, but I had spent ten hours listening to it, and so had to finish. 

The creek walking was mostly unexciting, though when the banks narrowed we had to climb up to the hill on the side, which proved to provide a little more adventure. Suitcase mode had to be activated again as Pearl didn’t seem to understand the danger of trying to run off cliffs. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

Eddy in the flowers, and us walking on the ATV trail. 

Near the end of the day we reached a large section of ice. We also met the only other person we saw on the trip, a hunter who seemed very unwilling to talk to us and probably would have ignored us entirely if we hadn’t called out to him and asked where to camp. He didn’t give us a useful answer. Maybe it was because, as I learned later, there was a large hole in the butt of my pants, or maybe he was annoyed that we had probably scared away all the sheep. We should have told him that there were hundreds before we hiked by. 

Finding a campsite was a little tricky. We ended up camping on a slightly sloped, somewhat windy ledge on the side of a hill. Dinner was mashed potatoes with something resembling meat. It was called “mashed potatoes” in quotes, which isn’t at all suspicious. It tasted good though. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

Major bootie repairs had to happen. We had run through 4 sets of booties, and had to start sewing them together in order to have any that didn’t have holes.

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

Eddy wasn’t entertained. At some point during the more adventurous sections of the day I had slid on my butt and ripped the whole seat of my pants open. We were out of dental floss, so there was no repairing my pants. However, I was excited when I realized that I had accidentally carried extra hiking pants, which I was going to wear during the car ride back, so I wouldn’t have to do the final day with my pants gaping. 

Day 6 

The day started by hiking up a hill and then through a pass. We then followed a sheep trail down the other side of the pass. The descent was much steeper than the ascent, and with poorer footing, with nothing but a foot wide sheep trail to follow down the side of the loose rock. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

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Walking up the ridge, and then at the top. Watch out Pearl, it’s a cliff! 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

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family trip in the wrangles, 2026

The sheep trail. Leash time for Pearl! No taking the short way down the hill. 

When we approached the valley we continued walking on the ridge for a while, until we ended up with a steep scree on all sides and then had to turn around and descend to Trail Creek in the valley. We started walking along the creek, following it until it mixed and merged with an ATV trail, and then reached the road and our car. 

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

family trip in the wrangles, 2026

End of the trip! Eddy was camera shy. Pearl was camera dumb. 

Only one bootie, out of five sets, survived the trip without a hole. We had to throw out all the other booties. My pants didn’t survive the trip, and my ankle was definitely a new level of itchy, like twenty mosquito bites piled on top of each other. Maybe only ten. It is fair to say that fun was had by all, and that the trip is an experience worth repeating. Four out of five stars. Five if there was ice cream waiting at the car for us instead of a single protein beverage that Molly drank.

Iditarod Trail Invitational 2026

April 13th, 2026

In 2025, I volunteered for the Iditarod Trail Invitational (ITI as everyone calls it), and I had a lot of FOMO watching the Nome-bound folks progress on the trail. April came, and I decided to sign up. Then, in February, I found myself watching the Iron Dog coverage as the teams got stuck in snowstorm after snowstorm, as I shoveled and shoveled… and the snow kept coming. When the ITI finally arrived, I thought there was a 50/50 chance of there being a trail between McGrath and Ruby. McGrath to Ruby doesn’t see much traffic outside the Iron Dog and the Iditarod, and since the Iditarod was two weeks after ITI instead of the normal week, things looked a bit dire.

Nome was a long way off, though…

ITI 2026

I figured that even if I had to bail in McGrath, I would still have fun, so on a sunny Sunday afternoon, I was off to McGrath and possibly Nome.

ITI 2026

The ride to McGrath was fun. I got to ride with a few new people..

ITI 2026
ITI 2026

I got to see Tony and Josh, yay! I volunteered in Rohn with Tony in 2024; it was great to see him!

ITI 2026

The ride and push over Rainy Pass was fun and beautiful…

ITI 2026

ITI 2026

ITI 2026

I got lots of sleep in Rohn..

ITI 2026

And I got to see Jonathan and Stephanie P in Nikolai P, hurrah! I even got the timing down, so I got mostly good trail from Rohn to Mcgrath.

ITI 2026

It was cold, though, the coldest I have seen between Knik and McGrath.

McGrath was less chaotic than normal…

ITI 2026

But the trail past Takotna was not in, and waiting 10 days for the dog race wasn’t something I was up for, so I bailed and flew back home to Fairbanks.

ITI 2026

ITI 2026

Nancy, Eddy the dog, and Sinbad the cat not pictured, but I was glad to see them.

Thanks to everyone who makes the ITI happen. I had fun, just slightly shorter than planned fun. Happy trails, and congratulations to everyone who waited it out in McGrath and made it to Nome.

A loop in the Arctic with Molly

September 2nd, 2025

Molly, Pearl, Eddy, and I slowly made our way up Trembly Creek.  Trembly started as a wide valley, but after a few miles necked down into a narrow, steep-sided gulley. 

Gradually, we were getting clipped out, until we found the way blocked by a landslide, where the creek wove around swiftly through a pile of rubble.  We were stopped!  Molly and I fiddled around a bit, exploring options, going back and forth trying to see if we could get around the cliff and over the rockfall, but eventually we gave up and started looking at going up and around.  Molly said we should go up river right, and I said river left.   After too much discussion, I overruled Molly and we headed up on river left.  Up the steep bank we went, pulling the dogs up when it was too steep for them.  Eventually, we had a nice view of a well-defined bench on river right that looked like good walking – and of the cliffs ahead of us on the left side that we had to go up and around.  Duh!   A lot more up later, we could see the nice walking on the other side, well below us, taunting me for my poor decision.  Molly only said “I told you so” once.   Sigh.

Arctic Loop 2025

Scene of the poor route choice, dramatized by Molly.


In mid-spring someone emailed a paddling email list I am a member of, asking for volunteers to join in a packrafting trip on the west coast of Alaska to perform stream samples.  I checked with my family, and with their ok jumped on it.  A few months later, Molly expressed some sadness that she couldn’t come along, as her birding work was done for the summer and she had lots of free time.   After some discussion, I bailed on the sampling trip (they were able to find someone to replace me immediately, as it is a really neat trip in a very interesting and infrequently visited area) so I could do a trip with her.  Lizzy still had two jobs and Nancy had work and theatrical commitments with a local Shakespeare group, so they didn’t get to join us.

We waffled a bunch on destinations, and I ended up planning three trips in different parts of Alaska, in hopes at least one would have good weather.  A few days before the trip the weather looked good in the Brooks Range, so we headed north, spending the night at the Marion Creek campground near Coldfoot. In the morning, we continued north to just before the road climbs up to Chandlar Shelf, and started hiking.  We crossed the Dietrich River, and we were on our way! 

The trip was an adventure in a lot of ways.  A week beforehand, we adopted a new dog, Pearl, from a nearby dog team and she was joining us on the trip with Eddy.  Additionally, there were lots of stream crossings on the route and it wasn’t clear how much rain the area had seen recently.  I was a bit worried about doing this trip with my daughter Molly – the route was pretty remote, and I felt more responsibility than “normal” trips.  I wouldn’t have been that worried if I was solo, or with one of my normal trip partners, which was a new, odd feeling. 

Regardless, the trip was a blast!  We spent the first night on Trembly, where Pearl got a crash course on the world outside the dog yard. 

Arctic Loop 2025

Her first lesson was that you can fall off of things – she slipped off a small cliff and fell into a pool of water, which caused me to panic, but she emerged unharmed, only very wet.  She also learned that the little interesting holes in the ground have things in them when she stuck her nose in a ground squirrel hole and got bitten on the end of her nose.  She seemed unconcerned but I freaked out as her face was covered in blood!  It turned out that it was just a tiny nick and healed up quickly. 

Eddy was also not unscathed – while walking up Trembly we kept finding bits of animal carcasses – sheep fluff, sheep parts, caribou antlers, carabou parts, and an entire dead porcupine – and at one point I wasn’t fast enough to stop him from eating a baseball-sized chunk of sheep fur that had his stomach a bit sad for a few days. 

Arctic Loop 2025


The next day we hiked over to Kinnorutin Pass and camped near a high alpine lake. 

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Then it was down Amawk Creek to the North Fork of the Koyukuk…

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025


Pearl at this point had become a water crossing princess.  If the water looked too deep for her to ford, she would look at Molly or I and give us a “ride, please” look, to which we would pick her up and carry her across. One of the benefits of being 30 lbs!  Eddy, being closer to 70lbs,  would just get the heave-ho assist, where I would grab the handle on his backpack and lift him up to pull him across.   Eddy isn’t a fan of this method, but Princess Pearl loves being carried. 

Arctic Loop 2025

Once on the banks of the Koyokuk, we hiked up the river to the continental divide and camped. 

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Molly Trip 2025!!

The next day we hiked over to near Oolah pass, seeing our only people of the trip, a small group hiking to Anaktuvik from the highway.  

Molly Trip 2025!!

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Molly trip 2025!!

We were a bit ahead of schedule, and the forecast was for lots of rain soon, so on our final day we hiked over Oolah Pass and out on an unnamed creek to the highway.   I finished up with a 7 mile bike ride to fetch the car. 

Molly Trip 2025!! Arctic Loop 2025

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Arctic Loop 2025

Arctic Loop 2025

Alas, I broke my seat on the ride..

Broken seat!! Broken seat!!


It was a great trip!  I was really excited to hike a “harder” trip with Molly, with longer days, completely off trail, and lots and lots of stream crossings.   The route went through some truly beautiful country I had been before, and some wonderful places that were new to me.  It was also the first trip of this length I had done completely off trail with Eddy, and of course Pearl was new to us and we were just starting to get acquainted.   I had gotten a new, bigger tent for this trip (an ebay score, details below!), and we quickly learned that Pearl loves to snuggle in the tent.  Eddy is a bit less excited by tent time, but likes it once settled in.   Pearl did get very worked up when the marmots and ground squirrels would chirp at us, going into “cracker dog’ mode, where it was hard to get her attention, so she stayed on leash most of the time along with Eddy.  

I really want to do do more of these!!

A few words from Molly

I really enjoyed getting to do this “real wilderness” trip, even though I complained about my dad’s route-finding and Pearl’s tendency to always tangle her leash in the brush sometimes. There were practically no mosquitoes at all, the weather was mostly clear, and the scenery was beautiful!

The arctic wildflowers, growing close to the ground, had to have been one of my favorite parts of the scenery. Understated little blossoms that I mostly didn’t know the names for but grew to recognize over the days. I wish I had made a photo journal of every type we saw. 

A second favorite part of the trip was going up or down a “molly breaker” hill or a “dad breaker” pass and looking back to see where we had just come from. The distance puts the climb into perspective. 

I loved it when we found a game trail to follow because it made the walking a bit easier, but also because it is fun to think about all the caribou, bears, and wolves that walked before you. 

I learned quite a bit about the area we walked in from listening to my dad ramble on about famous landmarks, about past trips, and about potential future trips. He has mapped Wikipedia entries downloaded onto his phone for the area, so he could read me professionally curated information about mountains and rivers in the tent at night when I asked. In exchange, I read aloud the novel Artemis Fowl to him. It’s a children’s book, but we both seemed to enjoy it. 

I would definitely like to do another trip in the Arctic next summer, but we either shouldn’t take the Subaru, or I need to drive instead of Dad. He kept looking at the scenery instead of the road, saying things like “ooh, it looks like we could hike up that valley there,” and then I would frantically say “pothole!” moments before the poor car smashed into it.


A few other notes..

  • There were almost no bugs – it was amazing! 
  • In the classic in 2023, I shared an MSR two-person tent with Peter D, and really liked it.  It was pretty light (~2lbs), and a “normal” style double-wall tent.  In the early summer, I noticed a good deal on old stock  3-person version on ebay.  I got it, and am super happy I did – it turned out to work great for two people and two dogs, and it was just over 3lbs.  I really like that tent! Alas, the current version is bit heavier, possibly thicker material and normal vs carbon poles, and their lighter 3-person tent is a fair bit smaller.  Highly recommended if you can find a NOS version of it. 
  • This is the first road-to-road loop I have done from the haul road that was purely hiking.  I was surprised how quickly I could get to someplace interesting from the road.   I need to do more of these, as it was logistically simple and fun!  I have of course done several road to road trips off the dalton, but nothing “loop” like, were the start and end were so close together. 
  • I brought a very light ti roll-up windscreen for our stove which rocked. 
  • I really wished I had brought a light binocular or monocular as there were lots of neat birds and I am sure the valleys hid a lot of animals.  
  • Molly made dried dinners for each night, and they were very good. I even liked the ones with tofu in them!
  • We saw:
    • Three bears
    • Two sheep
    • Lots of birds, including several pairs of merlins.
    • A porcupine
    • Six people
    • Lots and lots of small critters – ground squirels, voles, marmots, etc.


 

Visiting Windy Arch

July 1st, 2025

A few years ago I went to the base of Windy Arch in BLM’s White Mountains in the winter. I had to turn around as Eddy the dog was having trouble on the steep hard pack. I had wanted to go back in the summer, and finally got a chance this spring!

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

Nome Creek road was closed for construction, so we hiked in from the Wickersham Dome trail…

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

Where some smoke jumpers were brushing out the trail – which was a huge improvement!!!

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

Such an improvement – from last year..

Windy Arch Loop

And approximately the same area after getting brushed out by the jumpers..

Windy Arch Loop

There were signs of last year’s fire..

Windy Arch Loop

And a bit of recovery..

Windy Arch Loop

We floated a bit of Beaver Creek, camped, and the next morning floated down to near Wolf Run Cabin.

Windy Arch Loop

Then hiked up to Windy Arch!

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch!

Photo complements of Peter D.

Windy Arch Loop

It was very hot – 85f in the shade??

Windy Arch Loop

We camped in the Limestone Jags – so beautiful!

Windy Arch Loop

And the off-trail walking was the best I have ever experienced in Alaska – fantastic game trails, and wonderful dry streambed walking!

Windy Arch Loop

We had a bit of a slog when we had to skip our plan to hike the ridges back to Beaver Creek.. but it wasn’t horrible, just not great..

Windy Arch Loop

Windy Arch Loop

And it did end.. yay!

Windy Arch Loop

The last day we hiked the Summit Trail out, dodging thunderstorms, and just making it out before a big one came in. A few days later, the whole area was closed due to two fires likely started by those storms. Summer in Alaska alas!

This trip was a blast, but if I was to do it again (which I might, the better parts were really scenic! ) – I would float from ophir creek campground to where Fossil Creek enters Beaver Creek, hike up into the Jags, then out either over Cache Mt or the divide. That would mostly have good walking, and miss the tussock slogs part.
I hope everyone is enjoying summer!

Kotzebue to Kobuk – Fun on the Kobuk 440 trail!

April 30th, 2025

When we arrived in Kiana, there was only a faint trail out of town. After spending the night in the school we slept in late, hoping the dog race’s trail crew would leave before us and put in a trail.  As we rode out of town and down onto the Kobuk river, there was lath marking a trail out of town – yay!!  We puttered along slowly, grinding away on a soft trail across the main channel only to find the trail turned around – doh!  And back we went, slowly grinding back to town..  

Riding the KB440

In 2023, Bill F and I talked a bit about biking the Kobuk 440 route.  The Kobuk 440 is a dog sled race that goes from Kotzebue to Kobuk, then back, and is semi-legendary for bad weather.  

Kobuk440 route, from the Kobuk 440 website.

It is well above the Arctic Circle, and the temperatures can be quite cold, but by early April it should have lots of daylight..  We had tentative plans to ride the route in 2024, but those fell through. Which was possibly for the best, as the dog race was delayed a few days due to a big storm system coming in.   A friend was in Kotzebue teaching kids to ski for Skiku when the dog race was supposed to start.  The wind was so strong that school was canceled.   Kotzebue is a really windy place, so for school to be canceled, it must have been horrific!  

With that gloomy backdrop, this year we tried again and were joined by Spencer M.  We arrived in Kotzebue on the last day of March, and we flew right over the trail as we landed.  I had never been north of Nome on the coast, and spent the last part of the flight with my head pressed against the window looking out for the trail, which wasn’t to be seen.  The treeless alien wasteland was pretty intimidating, but I guess that is what the adventure is all about! 
After spending the rest of the day getting the bikes ready to go and doing a bit of exploring in Kotzebue, we left the following day, April 1st.

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Leaving town was a bit confusing, but we were soon on the right trail and on our way – the start of a new adventure in a completely new place, hurrah!  

Riding the KB440

We spent most of the day biking to Noorvik, enjoying a wonderful sunny day with a brisk tailwind.  It felt a bit like being on the planet Hoth from Star Wars – snowy, treeless, and exposed. Crossing Kobuk Lake topped things off, and I could almost hear the Imperial walkers stomping in the distance.. 

Riding the KB440

Fortunately, as we got closer to Noorvik, trees started to return. 

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

We arrived in Noorvik in the early evening, when a regional basketball tournament was happening, and I enjoyed a healthy dinner of nachos and hot dogs from a stand the local kids were running.   Alas, I was thinking we would make it to Kiana, but we were going slower than anticipated – a bit of a theme for this adventure, hah!   

  • Day 1: 
    • Distance 47.88 mi
    • Elevation Gain 725 ft
    • Moving Time 9h 29m

The next day we headed out into a snowy morning and slowly rode to Kiana, where we found the trail ended. 

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

The folks in Noorvik had said that the trail from Kiana to Ambler doesn’t see much traffic, and I guess they were right.  There was a faint trail, but it was well covered with snow, and it would have been slow pushing..  We stopped by the school and they put us up for the night.  I was able to get pizza, pie, and other snacks from the store, hurrah!   We went to bed with plans to head out in the late morning in hopes the dog race would have someone putting in a trail.  

Riding the KB440 Riding the KB440
  • Day 2:
    • Distance 23.10 mi
    • Elevation Gain 285 ft
    • Moving Time 6h 1m

We packed up and headed out in the late morning, enjoying a leisurely morning in hopes there would be a trail when we left. On the way out of town we passed a group with the National Park Service who were heading out to staff the Portage / Tutasraq shelter cabin.  Things were looking good!  There was even a trail out of town marked by lath! 

Riding the KB440

Alas, it ended a quarter of a mile out of town, and we turned around and went back to hang out at the Blankenship store and eat snacks.  I looked out at every snow machine that passed by in hopes one would be the NPS heading out, but no luck.  Eventually, I walked down to the river and a group on big machines went by and parked out where the trail ended, chatted, then took off and headed out. We spent most of the day riding slowly on very soft trail, enjoying the sun and hoping for better trail. 

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

The trail slowly got better as the traffic increased, and got quite a bit better when a group went by pulling a big machine on a sled. 

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Eventually, the trail went close to the bank and we found a good place to bivy for the night.   Just after sunset a group of snowmachines passed by with the dog race and stopped and chatted for a bit. 

Kobuk Ride

Photo complements of Bill Fleming.

Riding the KB440

I drifted off enjoying the northern lights, and in the early hours of the morning I was woken by dog teams passing, though I was too lazy to get up and cheer them on.  

  • Day 3: 
    • Distance 28.13 mi
    • Elevation Gain 292 ft
    • Moving Time 9h 50m

In the morning we packed up and enjoyed some nicer trail… until it started snowing again, and things slowed down.  We passed by the Portage or Tutasraq cabin where we ran into our first mushers, and chatted a bit with the NPS folks who were camped nearby and were keeping the cabin warm.   

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440 Riding the KB440

Get all of me in the photo – Quince Mountain while taking photos of his mittens as booties cabin footwear. Mushers like Quince give me hope for humanity..

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

By evening our progress slowed down a fair bit in the new snow, and we camped in some bushes just off the trail a few miles from where the author Seth Kantner grew up. 

  • Day 4: 
    • Distance 40.29 mi
    • Elevation Gain 876 ft
    • Moving Time 10h 1m

In the morning the wind had died down, but it was still snowing lightly. 

Riding the KB440

So many ptarmigan!

Riding the KB440

Riding the KB440

We rode slowly the rest of the way into Ambler, where we were excited to hear there was a place that served food – yay! 

Riding the KB440
We stayed at the school, and given our slow progress, decided to see how the trail was to Kobuk – if we could make it there we would call it good.  

I was super amused by a poster with Iñupiaq seasons on it, with two springs – which seems very logical from my Fairbanks perspective.  In early spring it is sunny, with warm days and cold nights and the best part of the winter.   Late spring it is warm all day, mushy, and gross, and the worse part of the year. 

Riding the KB440
  • Day 5: 
    • Distance 18.61 mi
    • Elevation Gain 735 ft
    • Moving Time 6h 21m

We headed out of town after agreeing that if the trail was bad, we would turn back.  The trail started slow but ridable, but gradually switched to mostly walking with short sections of riding. 

Riding the KB440

There was lots of joking about the “well-used trail” the locals talked about.  We didn’t see anybody.  There were lots of clouds, and I couldn’t see the mountains and views the folks at the Noorvik basketball tournament told us about, alas.  However, I did enjoy a nice long walk with the bike.  Almost a marathon of pushing, hah! 

Riding the KB440

We spent the night in the Shungnak school, where the principal gave us Shungnak hoodies! 

  • Day 6: 
    • Distance 26.17 mi
    • Elevation Gain 404 ft
    • Moving Time 10h 50m


On our final day, we rode on a much better trail for the 9 miles to Kobuk. 

Riding the KB440

We had spent the afternoon and evening before in Shungnak talking to the kids and hanging out with locals.  Folks seemed pretty interested in chatting with us about our ride.  I learned that there are several Iñupiaq dialects in the area, and the language spoken by the folks in Noorvik (coastal Iñupiaq) is different enough from what is spoken in  Kobuk (inland Iñupiaq), the locals weren’t able to tell us pronounce place names in a dialect spoken in the other region.  I was super impressed how the local languages are apparently still in use!  Keeping a language alive that is only spoken in three villages with a total population of under 2k is an amazing achievement!  

  • Day 7: 
    • Distance 8.92 mi
    • Elevation Gain 223 ft
    • Moving Time 2h 31m

The following afternoon we flew back to Kotzebue (morning flights having been canceled due to weather), and I flew back to Fairbanks via Anchorage the day after that. 

Riding the KB440

Thanks for the adventure Bill and Spencer, it was great traveling with you! 

Notes: 

This trip was super fun, and it was great spending time with Bill and Spencer! 


Bill did most of the logistics for this trip, and contacted the schools in advance and got us permission to stay in them, and for Noorvik and Ambler, permission for us to send resupply boxes.  It was generally $150 a night per person, and the schools were all pretty friendly. 

The trail was very slow after Noorvik.  It didn’t appear to be getting much traffic between Kiana and Ambler.  We saw lots of traffic between Kotzebue and Noorvik, but otherwise we didn’t see many people on the trail.  

The riding was mostly slow, but we had pretty good weather.  It snowed most days, but we didn’t have any hard wind storms.  It is very exposed from Kotz to Noorvik, and could be miserable if a storm came in. 

The trail conditions were slow and soft for the most part.  The locals say that it generally snows when the Kobuk 440 is happening, so maybe this is normal for this time of year. 

The route was scenic, but it had a lot more river riding than I expected – which is my own fault, as I had a map. It was also very cloudy with limited visibility for a lot of the ride, so I had fewer views of the mountains than I would have liked, but such is life. 

Everyone was very friendly! 

There are flights twice a day from Kotz to all the villages on our route via Bering Air, as well as frequent flights from Kotz to Anchorage. Direct lights from Fairbanks to Kobuk, Shungnak, and a few other villages are available, although these are only offered a couple of times a week via Wright Air, and are not listed or advertised. Ryan Air handles freight (the bikes) in all these communities. 

The hotel in Kotzebue is super nice! 

The local native languages (Iñupiat dialects) were everywhere!  It was really exciting to see the local languages are alive.  The principal in Shungak said the students didn’t like going to their Inupiat classes, so maybe it is an uphill battle, but it is still very refreshing to see.  

Skiing this route later in the year might be fun.  Ned Rozell and Andy Sterns did that years ago and had a great time. 

For anyone thinking of doing this route, it isn’t a beginner’s trip. It is very remote, and can be extremely cold and windy, with little traffic. 

This was the first trip in a while where I wished for tires with more tread.  I had big tires, HD 4.8s on wide rims, but with low-profile tread, and I think something with a bit more bite to it in the front might have worked better.  And maybe an even bigger tire. We joked a bit about the new gearbox fat bike Surly is making, maybe that would have been ideal, or maybe not. 

A Beaver Creek Float with the Family

June 25th, 2024

The family and I did the classic Beaver Creek float and hike. Jokingly I suggested to my daughter Lizzy that she write a blog post about it for me. Amazingly, she agreed – enjoy!


In a story that was told during one of the Dark Winter Nights productions it was stated that something truly was terrifying because Jay Cable started screaming, and he never screams. 

I can say that this is factually false. My dad screams more than probably anybody else I know. Multiple times I have had to tell him to not scream unless he is actually seriously injured because otherwise, nearby people will come running to witness the terrible injury, which would be embarrassing for both him and me. 

Note: The dark winter nights episode Lizzy is refering to can be found here:
(Also, I never scream. -JC)

https://dark-winter-nights-true-stories-from-alaska.castos.com/episodes/the-blowhole

The beaver creek trip I went on this summer, luckily, did not include very much screaming, except for a few moments. The weather was fairly perfect, with almost no bugs.

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The packrafting was definitely not hot, but also not the frigid hail-filled adventure a previous beaver creek trip was. We had one day of packrafting, then stayed at a cabin for the night, then crossed the creek again to get to the trail on the other side. I was boating in a tricolor boat and took joy in paddling far ahead from the rest of the group so that I had to be shouted at to wait. 

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Lizzy, in the “tricolor boat”..
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Lizzy, in her natural habitat..
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The wildlife from the creek was quite impressive. We saw multiple eagles and ospreys, plus a porcupine and a moose. Bank swallows were also a continual presence later during the boating. 

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Summer cabin life..
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Lizzy, the young author of this screed, appreciating the aroma of her well aged socks..
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The short journey away from the cabin on the second day turned out to be an unexpected source of adventure. I got across perfectly fine in my boat, which I then deflated and rolled up to go in my dad’s backpack. However, there was a shriek from the middle of the creek as my dad was crossing. Apparently he had a thermos of coffee in the boat which had a poor lid, or a lid he had forgotten to actually screw on. Whatever the cause, he was soon sitting in a pool of coffee that had filled the inside of his raft. 

When he got out of the boat the seat of his pants was soaked. There was also a very strong odor of coffee as he walked past. He quickly changed into different pants and underwear. However, he then asked the family to wash both in the creek. I refused and ran in the opposite direction. Finally, he was forced to wash his own clothing, and then changed into dry shorts. 

It wouldn’t really have mattered if he had kept the original shorts on. He had told us that there would be a creek crossing after the first, but that it would be shallow and that we would just walk across. It was not shallow. It was thigh deep on my dad, waist deep on me. I told my dad he had to come back and take my backpack for me. I had assumed, on a day we wouldn’t be boating, that I wouldn’t need to seal everything into a dry sack. Apparently, on all hiking trips it is best to assume that you are going swimming. 

The trail on the first day of hiking wasn’t terrible, but it wasn’t great either. The brush, unfortunately, in some locations was densest beside and in the trail. The brush would grow specifically in the trail because water would flow down it. Specifically the two miles after the trail shelter, or before the trail shelter from our perspective, are very brushy. 

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When we reached camp I entertained myself by reading the two books I brought, both of which I finished during the trip. I was very appreciative of the large supply of camp chairs in the trail shelter. 

The third day, while being the shortest, was somewhat frustrating for me. My wet feet and poor shoes generated blisters. I was also carrying the largest kayak paddles, which stuck out from the top of my pack and caught on all the brush. 

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Why, what big paddles you have Lizzy!

My spirits improved near the end of the hike, and I was pleased with myself once I reached the parking lot and took my shoes off. I also have an appreciation now for my hatred of coffee. I will never end up with coffee packraft crotch.